Destination: Belfast
The North's largest city by some distance, Belfast has a pace and bustle you'll find almost nowhere else in the six counties that make up Northern Ireland. For many, however, Belfast will always be remembered as the focus of the Troubles that dominated Northern Ireland's politics for almost three decades from the late 1960s and scarred so many personal lives. Indeed, as the North still continues to come to terms with the aftermath of the peace process, instigated by the 1998 Good Friday Agreement, the city remains in some ways on a knife's edge, always expecting some new predicament to emerge.
In appearance Belfast closely resembles Liverpool, Glasgow or any other industrial port across the water, and, similarly, its largely defunct docklands – in which, famously, the Titanic was built – are undergoing massive redevelopment. Though the city centre is still characterized by numerous elegant Victorian buildings, there's been an enormous transformation here, too, not least in the greater prosperity of the shopping streets leading northwards from the hub of Belfast life, Donegall Square. Yet economic improvement is not reflected in every aspect of Belfast life. Some areas of the city display obvious economic decline, most notably North Belfast and the once-thriving so-called Golden Mile (now little more than a silver two hundred yards at each end). On weeknights the city centre can resemble a ghost town, though there's no doubt that Belfast continues to thrive culturally. Theatre and the visual arts are flourishing, and there are plenty of places to catch the city's booming traditional- music scene.
Belfast is a place for getting out and about, and has plenty of attractions to experience. A couple of days are enough to get a feel for the city, although it is a good base from which to visit virtually anywhere else in the North. In the city centre, concentrate on the glories resulting from the Industrial Revolution – grandiose architecture and magnificent Victorian pubs – and the rejuvenated area from Ann Street to Donegall Street now known as the Cathedral quarter. To the south lies Queen's University and the extensive collections of the Ulster Museum, set in the grounds of the Botanic Gardens. A climb up Cave Hill, a couple of miles to the north, rewards you with marvellous views of the city spread out around the curve of its natural harbour, Belfast Lough. The city's once-formidable security presence and fortifications are now virtually invisible, but the iron blockade known as the Peace Line still bisects the Catholic and Protestant communities of West Belfast, a grim physical reminder of the city's and country's sectarian divisions – and there are certain flashpoints such as the Short Strand in East Belfast and North Belfast's Ardoyne area that it is still inadvisable to visit.
Highlights
- The Laganside Nowhere has the city seen more recent change than in its harbour and docklands, revitalized by developments such as the Odyssey Arena and the Waterfront Hall.
- Stormont The seat of government in Northern Ireland, set in glorious parkland.
- Cave Hill The best spot for a panoramic view of the city and Belfast Lough spread out below.
- West Belfast An essential part of any visit to the city: the murals, Peace Line, cemeteries and fortified bars put everyday life into stark political context.
- The John Hewitt Both modern and traditional at the same time, this is unquestionably one of the city's finest pubs, with splendid music sessions to boot.
Discover more to see and do in Belfast at www.roughguides.co.uk
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