Destination of the Week: Hong Kong
In its multifaceted role as one of the key economies of the Pacific Rim, a repository of traditional Chinese culture, and an experiment in governance with which the mainland authorities hope to win over a recalcitrant Taiwan, Hong Kong is East Asia's most extraordinary city.
The territory's per capita GNP has now overtaken that of Britain, its former imperial master, and the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (HK SAR) is currently the largest source of external investment in the People's Republic of China.
Yet Hong Kong's famous addiction to money and brand names tends to mask the fact that most people work long hours and live in crowded, tiny apartments in one of the most densely populated cities on earth. On the other hand, it's hard not to enjoy the sheer energy of its street- and commercial life, and the population of seven million is sophisticated and well informed compared to their mainland cousins, the result of a relatively free press. The urban panorama of sky-scrapered Hong Kong Island, seen across the harbour from Kowloon, is stunning, and you'll find a surprising wealth of undeveloped rural areas within easy commuter range of the hectic centre and its perennial, massive engineering projects.
The Hong Kong SAR comprises an irregularly shaped peninsula abutting the Pearl River Delta to the west, and a number of offshore islands, which cover 1100 square kilometres in total. The bulk of this area, namely the north of the peninsula as well as most of the islands, forms the semi-rural New Territories, the land leased to Britain for 99 years in 1898. The southern part of the peninsula, known as Kowloon, and the island immediately south of here, Hong Kong Island, are the principal urban areas of Hong Kong. Though ceded to Britain in perpetuity, the British government in 1984 saw no alternative but to agree to hand back the entire territory as one piece, returning it to Chinese control from midnight of June 30, 1997.
Hong Kong Island's north shore offers not only traces of the old colony – from English place names to ancient, double-decker trams trundling along the shore – but also superb modern cityscapes of towering buildings teetering up impossible slopes, along with whole districts dedicated to selling Traditional Chinese Medicine and herbs. As a further contrast, the south of the island offers several decent beaches, a huge amusement park, and even hiking opportunities.
North of the harbour, Kowloon – especially Tsim Sha Tsui – is the SAR's principal tourist trap, boasting a glut of accommodation, and shops offering an incredible variety of goods (not necessarily at reasonable prices, though). North of Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon stretches away into the New Territories, a varied area of New Towns and older villages, secluded beaches and undeveloped country parks. In addition, the Outlying Islands – particularly Lamma and Lantau – are well worth a visit for their seafood restaurants and further rural contrasts to the hubbub of downtown Hong Kong.