Destination of the Week: Japan
Two weeks is the minimum needed to skim the surface of what Japan can offer. The capital Tokyo, and the former imperial city and thriving cultural centre of Kyoto, will be top of most visitors' itineraries, and deservedly so, but you could avoid the cities entirely and head to the mountains or smaller islands to discover an alternative side of the country, away from the most heavily beaten tourist tracks.
You could spend two weeks just in Tokyo. The metropolis is home to some of the world's most ambitious architecture, stylish shops and outrageous restaurants and bars – as well as glimpses of traditional Japan at scores of temples, shrines and imperial gardens. Consider also taking in a couple of the city's surrounding attractions, in particular the historic towns of Nikkō, home to the amazing Tōshō-gū shrine complex, and Kamakura, with its giant Buddha statue and tranquil woodland walks. Northern Honshū sees surprisingly few visitors, but its sleepy villages and nicely laid-back cities deserve to be better known.
Further north, across the Tsugaru Straits, Hokkaidō is Japan's final frontier, with many national parks including the outstanding Daisetsu-zan National Park, offering excellent hiking trails over mountain peaks and through soaring rock gorges. The lovely far northern islands of Rebun-tō and Rishiri-tō are ideal summer escapes.
Skiing, mountaineering and soaking in hot springs are part of the culture of Central Honshū, an area dominated by the magnificent Japan Alps. The old castle town of Matsumoto, and Nagano, with its atmospheric temple of pilgrimage, Zenkō-ji, can both be used as a starting point for exploring the region. Highlights include the tiny mountain resort of Kamikōchi and the immaculately preserved Edo-era villages of Tsumago and Magome, linked by a short hike along the remains of a three-hundred-year-old stone-paved road. Takayama deservedly draws many visitors to its handsome streets lined with merchant houses and temples, built by generations of skilled carpenters.
Kyoto, Japan's premier cultural centre, is home to its most refined cuisine, classy ryokan, glorious gardens, and magnificent temples and palaces. Nearby Nara is a more manageable size but no slouch when it comes to venerable monuments, notably the great bronze Buddha of Tōdai-ji and Hōryū-ji's unrivalled collection of early Japanese statuary. The surrounding region contains a number of still-thriving religious foundations, such as the highly atmospheric temples of Hiei-zan and Kōya-san. Over on the east coast is Japan's most revered Shinto shrine, the austere Ise-jingū. Not all of Kansai is so rarefied, though.
Okinawa comprises more than a hundred islands stretching in a great arc from southern Kyūshū to within sight of Taiwan. The islands formed an independent kingdom until the early seventeenth century and traces of their distinctive, separate culture still survive. The beautifully reconstructed former royal palace dominates the capital city, Naha, but to really appreciate the region you need to make for the remoter islands. Though not undiscovered, this is where you'll find Japan's most stunning white-sand beaches and its best diving, particularly around the subtropical islands of Ishigaki and Iriomote.