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London Fashion Week can be the start of a golden era for a sector that keeps the capital prosperous, writes mayor Sadiq Khan

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Yesterday, London Fashion Week drew to a close – and what a week it was.
Yesterday, London Fashion Week drew to a close – and what a week it was. Picture: REUTERS/Katie Collins
Sir Sadiq Khan

By Sir Sadiq Khan

Yesterday, London Fashion Week drew to a close – and what a week it was.

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With the eyes of the world on the capital, we put on a show to remember. The last few days saw a new generation of young, London-based designers take over the runway. From Aaron Esh and Chopova Lowena to KNWLS and Paolo Carzana, they channelled our city’s unique style into breathtaking designs which – if the applause they earned is anything to go by – are redefining the future of fashion. In their 170th anniversary year, Burberry cemented their legendary status in London with timeless class and craftsmanship. Meanwhile, M&S brought the best of the British high street to their first-ever catwalk show, celebrating a century in the fashion business. And a stunning all-white collection showed off Harris Reed’s inimitable flair.

The clothes on show at London Fashion Week may have been opulent, but London’s fashion industry is no luxury. It’s a vital economic asset that generates £32 billion for the economy every year.

That’s one of the reasons why it was so exciting to see Alexander McQueen back on the official London schedule for the first time in 25 years. For a brand that was born in our city – built by the late, great Alexander from studios on Hoxton Square with tailoring skills learned on Savile Row – it was a remarkable moment. The homecoming of Christopher Kane’s Mulberry after a six-year absence made it all the more special.

The return of two iconic British brands to London Fashion Week sends an unmistakeable message to the world: London’s position as a global fashion capital is getting even stronger.

Talk to any of the designers and makers who flocked to the capital for the event, and the reason for London’s success suddenly becomes clear. Today, our city is a place where designers and makers from every corner of the globe can come together to challenge old orthodoxies, break down barriers, and build something new and entirely unexpected.

It’s that unique, innovative, and irreverent spirit which keeps London right at the cutting edge season after season – helping us to nurture a new generation of homegrown stars even as we attract top talent from around the world.

Everywhere you looked at London Fashion Week, there were daring designs. But the truth is that what happens on the runway is only a fragment of the real story. From photographers, stylists, and students to manufacturers, marketers, and retailers, London’s fashion industry includes 10,000 businesses across the capital. Together, they support countless jobs.

That’s why, in my decade as Mayor, I’ve done everything in my power to help fashion flourish in the capital. City Hall’s support for London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Council has helped to secure £2.8 billion in trade and investment. Our £600m investment in East Bank – the biggest single investment in the capital’s cultural landscape since the Great Exhibition of 1851 – included support for the London College of Fashion’s state-of-the-art new campus. And I’m continuing to make the case for the reintroduction of tax-free shopping that was taken away by the last Conservative government. This would entice millions more international visitors to the UK each year, provide a multi-billion-pound boost for our economy, and support thousands of jobs – many of them in retail and fashion.

One of the reasons why legendary designers like Alexander McQueen were able to make it in London was because they could afford studio space in our city’s beating heart. Today, rising rents are threatening to push creatives out of the capital. But, through our flagship Creative Enterprise Zones, we’re fighting back. We’ve created more than 71,000 square metres of permanent workspace from Hounslow to Hackney Wick. In doing so, we’ve supported 1,000 businesses and helped 5,000 young Londoners to enter the creative sector. Among them could be the next big names on the runway.

It’s hard to overstate how important this is. Because, in the fashion world, London’s diversity is our superpower. We’ve never let our style be dictated by the outdated ideas of an elite few. Like our music, our films, and our food, our fashion finds beauty in all the creativity and contradiction of our capital. Londoners aren’t afraid to mix Peckham with Pimlico, or Southall with South Ken. We don’t do stuffy – and that’s what makes our creations so special.

Under the leadership of British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir, this London Fashion Week showed the capital at its bold, brilliant best – and I want to make sure that it’s the start of a new golden chapter for London’s designers. By opening up our fashion industry to a new generation of Londoners, we’re securing London’s space on the runway for decades to come – and we’re helping to build a better, brighter, fairer, and more prosperous London for everyone.

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Sir Sadiq Khan is the Labour Mayor of London.

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