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World-renowned climber and ex-British special forces Nirmal Purja among 10 missing after avalanche on Pakistan mountain

Nirmal Purja's last post on X said: "Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one."

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Nirmal Purja among 10 missing after avalanche on Pakistan mountain
Nirmal Purja among 10 missing after avalanche on Pakistan mountain. Picture: Alamy

By Ella Bennett

A British citizen is among a group of 10 mountaineers missing in Pakistan after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in the north of the country.

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Nirmal Purja MBE, who was born in Nepal and served in the British Army and Royal Marines, was leading an expedition on the world’s 12th highest peak when the avalanche struck at around midday on Thursday.

The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) said there had been no contact with any of the climbers since the avalanche.

Mr Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains with a peak above 8,000 metres in 189 days – smashing the previous record for accomplishing the feat by more than seven years.

Mr Purja is one of five Nepalese climbers in the group, as well as mountaineers from Pakistan, Oman, the US and China, as well as one foreign national from an unspecified country.

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Lance Corporal Nirmal Purja with his MBE, following an investiture ceremony at Windsor Castle
Lance Corporal Nirmal Purja with his MBE, following an investiture ceremony at Windsor Castle. Picture: Alamy

ACP president Major General Irfan Arshad is in contact with government officials to “facilitate an immediate search and rescue operation”, a statement from the organisation said.

The statement said: “The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) has received deeply concerning reports of an avalanche that struck a team of climbers on Broad Peak (8,047m) in the Karakoram mountain range around midday today.

“President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Major General Irfan Arshad, HI(M), along with the senior leadership of the Club, is in constant contact with the highest government authorities and all relevant agencies to facilitate an immediate search and rescue operation.

Camping site in front of Broad Peak (L) and Gasherbrum IV (R) at Baltoro glacier in the Karakoram range
Camping site in front of Broad Peak (L) and Gasherbrum IV (R) at Baltoro glacier in the Karakoram range. Picture: Getty

“Every possible effort is being made to ensure that helicopter support and all available rescue resources are mobilised at the earliest opportunity, subject to weather and operational conditions.

“The Alpine Club of Pakistan is closely monitoring the situation and coordinating with all concerned stakeholders.

“The Club prays for the safety and successful rescue of all the climbers and stands in solidarity with their families and the international mountaineering community during this difficult time.”