'This wasn't planned': Missing British climber's chilling last social media post revealed

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Mr Purja is among a group of 10 mountaineers missing in Pakistan after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in the north of the country.

The world-renowned climber, who was born in Nepal and served in the British Army and Royal Marines, was leading an expedition on the world’s 12th highest peak when the avalanche struck at around midday on Thursday.

The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) said there had been no contact with any of the climbers since the avalanche.

On July 27, Mr Purja wrote a long post on X explaining why he had decided to climb Broad Peak without oxygen, stating that he had already climbed all of the 8000m summits in Pakistan but wanted to do them again.

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"This was never the plan," he wrote.

"Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits.

"That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here, only one remains 'Cho Oyu.'

"Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen."

Mr Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains with a peak above 8,000 metres in 189 days – smashing the previous record for accomplishing the feat by more than seven years.

He is one of five Nepalese climbers in the group, as well as mountaineers from Pakistan, Oman, the US and China, as well as one foreign national from an unspecified country.

Mr Purja added that he doesn't take any of the mountains he climbs for granted, but he went on to issue a message to "those who still doubt".

He said: "I already climbed all 5 of Pakistan’s 8000ers in just 26 days. Leading. Guiding. Without oxygen. Breaking the records of those who broke mine with oxygen. The receipts are there.

"Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100 per cent. Always has been. Always will be.

"This one is dedicated to everyone who carried me here. Supporters. Critics. All of you. Without both sides, there is no fire. So thank you genuinely.

"My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing YOU that your own mountains—whatever they are—are climbable."

ACP president Major General Irfan Arshad is in contact with government officials to “facilitate an immediate search and rescue operation”, a statement from the organisation said.

The statement said: “The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) has received deeply concerning reports of an avalanche that struck a team of climbers on Broad Peak (8,047m) in the Karakoram mountain range around midday today.

“President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Major General Irfan Arshad, HI(M), along with the senior leadership of the club, is in constant contact with the highest government authorities and all relevant agencies to facilitate an immediate search and rescue operation.

“Every possible effort is being made to ensure that helicopter support and all available rescue resources are mobilised at the earliest opportunity, subject to weather and operational conditions.

“The Alpine Club of Pakistan is closely monitoring the situation and coordinating with all concerned stakeholders.

“The club prays for the safety and successful rescue of all the climbers and stands in solidarity with their families and the international mountaineering community during this difficult time.”