Beyond the banquet: Why Camilla’s tiara did more for Britain than any briefing note

For three days, the crown will turn on its full performative power, orchestrating a display of continuity and regal ceremonial grace.

However, in Britain 2025, amid economic pressures, public scrutiny of the monarchy once again at a high, and shifting diplomatic norms, one may be forgiven for wondering whether this is still the best display of British soft power, or has it become an expensive anachronism?

Central to the ritual, aside from dazzling displays of fashion, is the jewellery donned by the royal family. Not merely ornamental, each piece is chosen carefully as an instrument of symbolism.

For generations, the British Royal Family has understood the semiotics of jewels. Each tiara, brooch and necklace is more than a reflection of wealth or sentimental value.

These pieces speak to historical relevancy, memory and quiet diplomacy. Never worn at random, every adornment is selected with precision, sending clear messages to audiences both domestic and international alike.

At Tuesday’s state banquet, Queen Camilla wore the King George VI sapphire suite, including the Belgian Sapphire Tiara.

This set, originally acquired by Queen Elizabeth II in the 1960s, as an instantly recognisable and iconic piece from the Late Queen’s collection deliberately signals continuity within The Firm.

Queen Camilla, who last year in Paris opted for a striking Dior gown without a tiara, returned to more traditional styling in Windsor, stepping back into a familiar royal script.

Far from a decision based on personal taste, the decision to wear full regalia on home ground symbolises the monarchy’s enduring identity.

The absence of the controversial Koh-i-Noor diamond, which has been removed from rotation to its colonial associations, further underlines the care with which such choices have been made.

In her first tiara engagement since being diagnosed with cancer, The Princess of Wales wore the Lover’s Knot Tiara - once a favourite of the late Diana Spencer, paired with Greville Chandelier earrings which once belonged to Queen Elizabeth II, blending heritage with poignancy.

The selection, followed by her concurrent first ever appearance in a blush-pink Dior gown, nodded to Franco-British camaraderie and highlighted the appearance as much more than the Princess returning to work during such a symbolically charged event, but a symbol of deliberate soft power which carried the kind of emotional diplomacy that cannot be scripted.

Outside of the main banquet, Princess Anne’s ever consistent display of her signature pearls and decorations of the Order of the Garter, as well as the Duchess of Edinburgh’s continuance of quietness favouring minimalism paired with modern pieces crafted by British designers.

These choices are rarely ostentatious yet cautiously reinforce hierarchy, duty and national identity.

The use of jewellery as displays of soft power has deep historical roots, with Queen Elizabeth II being the master of this visual language over her 70-year reign. From the maple leaf brooch, worn specifically for Canadian visits to quietly affirm Commonwealth ties, to the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara which was originally a gift from female donors in 1893 and eventually became a symbol of bridging aristocracy with the wider public.

Each piece played its part in constructing an image of stability, diplomacy and above all, union. A strategy, while being subtly modernised, that is still being deployed by the younger generation today.

To a more sceptical viewer, scenes of diamond-encrusted aristocracy dining beneath chandeliers may feel disconnected from the realities of modern Britain.

From inflation to housing pressure, the images from Windsor may seem like an echo from a gilded age that no longer fits, raising questions as to whether this political dance is a play of soft power, or simply theatre.

Where France has couture and the United States has the silver screen, Britain’s power can be argued to lie in its pageantry.

While it’s true that Britain may no longer rule an empire, it is still rich with ritual. The monarchy's ability to draw attention, command coverage and stage diplomatic occasions with centuries-old gravitas that holds arguably as much relevancy on the world stage as ever before, and still draws millions of eyes (and tourists) each year.

Where performance and perception matters more than volume, a sapphire tiara or a vintage brooch can do more than a white paper or diplomatic communique.

Traditional yet adaptable and holding a distinct place within the monarch’s precise parade, the role of jewellery in royal state visits is to convey messages that the spoken language is unable to.

When Catherine wears Diana’s tiara, or Camilla draws on the Queen Mother’s collection, these are rarely stylistic nods. They are gestures that align with the current monarch with a lineage that continues to resonate globally.

As The Firm continues to move towards modernity, the line between ceremony and spectacle gets increasingly thinner. Now acutely aware of public opinion, the monarch walks the tightrope with careful calculation.

The jewels are still glittering, but weighed down by more than just intricate settings. The meaning of each piece, curated and repeated, sometimes interpreted means that where we see an heirloom piece it is never simply worn.

Still, as Macron dined beneath Windsor’s chandeliers, flanked by jewels from four generations of royal women, it’s difficult not to see the effectiveness of the pageant.

For all its expense and anachronism, state visits remain one of the most recognisable symbols of British identity. Perhaps, in the end, that is exactly the point.

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Nilesh Rakholia is the Founder and Creative Director of Abelini

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