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World-renowned climber and former British Royal Marine Nirmal Purja confirmed dead in Pakistan avalanche

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Nirmal Purja was confirmed dead on Saturday
Nirmal Purja was confirmed dead on Saturday. Picture: Alamy

By Danielle de Wolfe

A world-renowned climber and former British Army soldier who went missing following an avalanche in Pakistan has been confirmed dead.

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The body of Nirmal Purja, a former Special Forces soldier who was considered one of the world's most qualified climbers, was recovered after a group of 10 climbers went missing on Thursday.

It follows a widespread search operation, with his company Elite Exped confirming Mr Purja's death on Saturday.

The Nepalese mountaineer and former British Royal Marine was leading an expedition of 10 climbers on Broad Peak – the world’s 12th highest mountain.

The summit was located in the north of the country, with the avalanche striking shortly after midday on Thursday.

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Following extensive search efforts, four bodies were pulled from the snow on Friday.

In a post shared on Instagram, the company said: “Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak.

"We have also received confirmation that other members of this expedition sadly did not survive.

“Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa.

Nirmal Purja was considered one of the world's most renowned mountaineers
Nirmal Purja was considered one of the world's most renowned mountaineers. Picture: Alamy

“Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can erase the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve.”

The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) confirmed on Friday that there had been no contact with any of the climbers since the avalanche, with an update adding that emergency crews on the ground are working alongside helicopters to locate the missing.

The 10 missing climbers also included American Mallory Geis, alongside climbers from Oman, Pakistan and Nepal, according to the Alpine Club.

Mr Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains with a peak above 8,000 metres in 189 days – smashing the previous record for accomplishing the feat by more than seven years.

Mr Purja was one of five Nepalese climbers in the group, as well as mountaineers from Pakistan, Oman, the US and China, as well as one foreign national from an unspecified country.