When a suit becomes strategy: What Zelenskyy’s wardrobe says about Ukraine’s world stage presence
Clothing is never neutral. It is a form of symbolic communication that speaks before any words are uttered.
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What leaders wear reinforces identity and shapes how others perceive authority, legitimacy and intent. Since 2022, President Volodymyr Zelensky has carefully cultivated a wartime identity through his clothing.
His military-style green attire created an image of solidarity with soldiers, signalling that Ukraine’s struggle was not “business as usual” but a collective effort that demanded visible leadership.
Research consistently shows that attire, whether at the White House or in any professional setting, is more than mere appearance. Clothes influence not only how others judge us but also how we think, feel and act ourselves.
Psychologists call this phenomenon “enclothed cognition”, where the idea that clothing carries symbolic meaning which, once worn, affects behaviour and mindset.
Zelenskyy’s green military wear, therefore, served a dual function: it reassured troops and citizens of his shared sacrifice, and it helped him embody the role of wartime commander-in-chief in both perception and action.
Zelenskyy’s more recent attire signals a subtle but meaningful recalibration of his leadership image. By choosing a darker, more formal look while avoiding the conventional suit-and-tie, he preserves continuity with the wartime identity that has defined him, ensuring his leadership remains grounded in solidarity and resilience.
At the same time, the ensemble communicates an evolution — a leader who is not only commanding on the frontline but also asserting legitimacy and authority on the global stage.
From a leadership perspective, this demonstrates the careful balance leaders must strike when remaining consistent with their established identity while adapting to new contexts.
Clothing, in this sense, functions as a deliberate symbolic tool, reinforcing both credibility and strategic intent without a single word being spoken.
Zelenskyy’s choice also demonstrates the power of symbols in leadership more broadly. Attire becomes a tool to communicate authority, authenticity and resilience, even when it clashes with cultural or contextual expectations.
In this case, norms of formality meet Zelenskyy’s desire to signal solidarity and adaptability, showing that leadership is not simply about conforming to expectations but about conveying values and intent visually.
Clothing, therefore, is an extension of the leadership identity Zelensky wishes to project: a leader who can adapt. In this context, Zelenskyy’s recalibrated attire embodies a broader lesson for leaders everywhere.
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Katleen De Stobbeleir is Professor of Leadership at Vlerick Business School
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The views expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the official LBC position.