'They just want lattes and paninis now' Legendary East End pie and mash shop to move out due to gentrification

28 November 2022, 15:17 | Updated: 28 November 2022, 15:28

F. Cooke's Broadway Market branch in 2013.
F. Cooke's Broadway Market branch in 2013. Picture: Alamy

By Chris Samuel

One of London's best pie, mash and eel shops has been forced to move out of the East End of London, with locals favouring lattes and paninis.

Family run chain F. Cooke's pies was originally established in Brick Lane in 1862 by Robert Cooke.

But Chi Hart, a worker in its Harold Hill branch, said the chain has had to move from its traditional East End home due to 'gentrification'.

He said the chain's Broadway Market branch in Hackney closed three years ago because of a change in customer base.

The shops offer minced beef and kidney pies with mashed potatoes and green liquor sauce, made from parsley, chicken stock, butter and flour.

Read more: 'Don’t disrespect Qatar': Sir Tony Blair says it's time to 'move on' from World Cup protests about LGBTQ+ rights

Read more: Eco-mob head to the pub: Police watch on as activists take a break from causing travel chaos to go for a pint

Mr Hart, who works in the Harold Hill branch, said: 'We had shops in Hoxton, Bethnal Green and Broadway market, but with the gentrification of the area the customer base just changed.

'A lot of the East Enders were moving out to Essex or [the outer boroughs of London]. It's lattes and paninis around [the East End] now.'

Pie and mash is a Cockney classic often served with jellied eels and was easy to carry and cheap for the working class, and was particularly popular with Victorian dock workers.

Eels were among the few types of fish that could survive the heavy pollution seen in the River Thames at the time.

Mr Hart said apps like Deliveroo and UberEats helped the chain cope with the pressures brought by Covid, but the distinctive green signs of the shops are dissapearing in east London.

But he added that the shops in Chelmsford, Bishop Stortford, and Romford remain very busy and popular.

More Latest News

See more More Latest News

THAILAND PATTAYA MARKET THAI FOOD

Cardiovascular disease rates in Southeast Asia soar by 148% in 30 years according to latest figures

File photo dated 03/02/22 of an online energy bill. The energy price cap will fall by 7% from July 1 for a typical household in England, Scotland and Wales, Ofgem has said. Issue date: Friday May 23, 2025.

Energy companies ordered to pay out £70 million in compensation over forced meter fittings

A young caucasian man in pajamas in bed about to take some blue pills from a brown bottle

Urgent warning after two die in London taking ‘blue pills’

Doctor working with medical imaging and technology to provide accurate diagnosis.

New study reveals the childhood cancers which take the longest to diagnose

A Jewish boy has been hospitalised after a ‘racially motivated attack’ in Hampstead, a charity has said.

Jewish boy hospitalised after ‘racially motivated attack’ in Hampstead, north London

Palestinians carry boxes containing food and humanitarian aid packages delivered by the Gaza Humanitarian Foundation.

Hamas tells Gazans facing food shortages to stay away from US-linked aid deliveries

The Harvard University logo is displayed on a building at the school, Tuesday, April 15, 2025, in Cambridge, Mass.

Germany offers ‘exile campus’ to Harvard students after foreigner ban

Water St the morning after the tragic events just after the LFC trophy parade when a car was driven into the crowd injuring at least 50 people

Liverpool crash victim ‘pleaded with driver to stop’ before car mowed him down as motorist arrested for attempted murder

One in ten women say they have been spat on while running, a new study reveals.

'Hurtful and traumatising': Rise in men 'spitting' on women runners in disturbing new form of street harassment

Gayanne Potter told LBC she feels "absolutely sick".

Leading voiceover artist ‘violated’ by ScotRail AI announcements using her voice without 'permission'

The popular club's licence has been suspended following allegations that a woman was raped by a security guard in the vicinity of the venue

Heaven security guard accused of raping teenager was 'not permitted to work in UK' and 'used false ID to get job'

RFK Jr said that Covid-19 shots would be removed from the recommendations for certain groups.

Robert F Kennedy Jr drops Covid vaccines for healthy children and pregnant women - slamming lack of 'clinical data'

Rebecca Turner, 36, was found dead in Bangkok with her partner, Sam Melnick, in 2024.

Mother of British woman found dead in Bangkok hotel after 'unwitting hit of drugs' alleges Thai police ‘cover-up’

Arabella Stanton, Dominic McLaughlin and Alastair Stout will star as Hermione, Harry and Ron in the new Harry Potter TV series.

Harry Potter and the new cast revealed: First pic of child stars ahead of TV series

Liverpool's captain Virgil van Dijk (posing with former footballer Alan Hansen and the Premier League trophy) sent a message of support to victims of the crash

Liverpool captain Virgil van Dijk ‘praying for speedy recovery’ for those hurt in parade crash

(Clockwise from top left) Indigo Rumbelow, Leanorah Ward, Daniel Knorr and Margaret Reid

Four Just Stop Oil activists jailed over plot to disrupt Manchester Airport